Thanks Rhino for the anchor tie bit - mentioned (and showed) me at Altona few weeks ago and I took the advice - first stuck came unstuck perfectly and with little effort. Now using all the time. Damm good system!

Great system Rhino, I like your clips better than the Hobie kit ones which catch on my anchor cord. Also, the swivel shackles to the rope and the float are brilliant. Till now all I have is a piece of pool noodle as a float and hadn't worked out any game plan if I had to hurriedly remove the anchor from the yak. More food for thought...thanks!

Glad that you guys found it useful.

A few questions regarding anchor trolleys:
1. Does anyone use the troley in the fron position? What about only having the trolley to the back of the yak?
2. I cannot access the rear of my yak to hold washers and nuts in position, my alternative method would be to use a section of 8-10mm mylon chopping board, holding it on a stick inside the hull and with a (in the hull) light shining through it to show it's location, then screwing through the rear pulley fitting, hull & backing board with S/S self tappers.
Will this be strong enough?
3. I have a 230gm coopers anchor, about 1m of rope then 1.2m 6mm chain, then 30-40m cord on a big handline. I will get a float for this, and be able to stop the rope where required with a carabiner attached to the handline rim. How to attach this setup to the anchor trolley? I want it to be quick release, and shock cord protected (either on the tolley, or how it attaches to the trolley.

I'll be searching and reading through the other related threads in between work today, so I may well find some answers there.

1. A lot of people don't like anchoring from the front as the rope gets in the way when fighting fish, but others don't mind.
2. You can use well nuts if you can't access the inside of the yak. The back of the well nut expands when tightened. The chopping board idea would probably be strong enough but would be a pain to install.



3. For my Outback I had the standard Hobie clip on the trolley line, then a loop of bungee hanging off it with another SS clip. Once the anchor is deployed, work out where you want to tie it off and tie a simple overhand knot. Attach it to the SS clip.

I just do a simple knot like the first image here

Deefa wrote:A few questions regarding anchor trolleys:
1. Does anyone use the troley in the fron position? What about only having the trolley to the back of the yak?
2. I cannot access the rear of my yak to hold washers and nuts in position, my alternative method would be to use a section of 8-10mm mylon chopping board, holding it on a stick inside the hull and with a (in the hull) light shining through it to show it's location, then screwing through the rear pulley fitting, hull & backing board with S/S self tappers.
Will this be strong enough?
3. I have a 230gm coopers anchor, about 1m of rope then 1.2m 6mm chain, then 30-40m cord on a big handline. I will get a float for this, and be able to stop the rope where required with a carabiner attached to the handline rim. How to attach this setup to the anchor trolley? I want it to be quick release, and shock cord protected (either on the tolley, or how it attaches to the trolley.

the other thing having a full lenth anchor trolley is with a drift shoot it gives you options

I'll be searching and reading through the other related threads in between work today, so I may well find some answers there.

as hatters has said some will anchor off the front - I do at times ( not offen ) sometimes with wind and tide in WP you get the yak to sit better
but you do have to keep in mind that fish can find there way around the rope
of cause some can still get around the rope off the rear this is worse if the yak is the wrong direction on the tide

my anchor trolley blocks are just self tappered on with stainless screws they have been there coming up 3 years with out a problem

I'm not sold on the cooper anchor - some like them but I prefur to have the anchor hold the bottom and not have the yak drift off with the tide
also the cost is twice of a folding anchor that does hold the bottom

Thanks for the replies HaTTerS and cheaterparts, appreciated.
I should (when it's calm) try temporarliy anchoring via the front and rear hand straps loops (one at a time ) and see if I am likely to want to anchor from the front. I know I would like to see wind/chop before I feel it but don't like the idea of the anchor line getting in the way (which it will for some fish anyway, as you say cheater)

I had seen the well nuts, just not sure I like the idea of drilling such a large hole in the yak. May just have to do that, if I cannot implement the chopping board idea.
I'm glad to hear that some SS self tapper screws holds your yak in the WP tides you encounter cheater, how many did you use, 2 or 3?
I have done some pretty painful screw and bolt installations in very hard to reach places with my old job, so hopefully I can get some reinforcing board behind my rear block.

I picked up the coopers anchor (as a first anchor) as most of my anchoring with this yak will be on a fairly shallow sandy bottom in PPB (or the sandy patches of cleeland bight, if they exist ).
I can see myself getting a folding grapnel type to use where appropriate, maybe when I start bringing some fish home to the missus as 'payback' for getting the yak with only moderate approval.

ps. those images are of a fine vintage HATTerS.

My original anchor trolley only ran to the back but for diving purposes, I extended it to the front. An advantage that I found in doing this; If your anchor did snag up (even if rigged as Rhino displays, they do not always release) and you were in strong current, it made it hard and dangerous to apply pressure if you were anchored off the back. Also you could not paddle up onto the anchor.
With the trolley extending to the front, you could move your trolley position from back to front and your kayak would turn around, allowing you to then paddle/pedal up to the anchor and you were in a safer position to apply pressure.

Mostly only used the front position when towing the kayak while diving, though there were a few times I did anchor of the front when fishing.

Another reason to run a full length trolley is for a drift Shute.
As you can move the chute from front to back and control your drift line.

Awesome, thanks everyone.
Looks like I'll run the trolley the full length for reasons stated, also may want to tie up to some structure in a river etc, possibly better to face upstream.
I just bought a long john westsuit, so better start saving for a trolley kit and (some neoprene boots).