Recommended spare parts for the PA?

[chrisw]

Folks,

Was wondering if anyone could recommend what basic spares I should keep on-hand for a PA in general, and also what tools I should carry when I head out? I have a decent multi-tool in my kit which should do most things but if there's anything specific I should carry I'm keen to know.

I suppose the thing that concerns me most is some sort of issue with the miragedrive as I've heard of the odd case where something breaks or seizes up in use. Hopefully this won't be an issue with a brand-new drive but I thought it worth checking (I do make sure to wash it down after use and avoid plonking it on sand; I also have a container of the hobie lube on hand already).

[shane]

The spares I carry with the PA (& AI) are:

- Spare mirage drive chain
- Spare mirage drive idler cable
- Spare mirage drive mast
- Cable ties
- Spanner for nyloc nuts (can use multitool)
- Small stiltzens for removing mirage drive mast stubs (rarely needed)
- Phillips head screwdriver
These all fit in a satchel that's attached to the back of the seat so I can access it easily on the water if needed. This also houses by EPIRB, flares, floating torch, compass etc.

If doing a longer trips away (eg for SWR this year) I will also take the following away with me but not on the water
- Spare mirage drive pedal crank assembly
- Ellen key set
- Extra chains/cables & masts
- Spare mirage drive

I tend to break stuff more often than most people so you may not need all this. Masts can usually be straightened on the water if you run into something - provided they don't snap. The mirage drive can function with only one fin or without the idler cable. So as long as you're not too far offshore then you can usually limp back.

[maverick]

If you fish like Shane, it is probably just easier to tow a spare PA behind you and swap over as required.

[chrisw]

The spares I carry with the PA (& AI) are:

- Spare mirage drive chain
- Spare mirage drive idler cable
- Spare mirage drive mast
- Cable ties
- Spanner for nyloc nuts (can use multitool)
- Small stiltzens for removing mirage drive mast stubs (rarely needed)
- Phillips head screwdriver
These all fit in a satchel that's attached to the back of the seat so I can access it easily on the water if needed. This also houses by EPIRB, flares, floating torch, compass etc.

If doing a longer trips away (eg for SWR this year) I will also take the following away with me but not on the water
- Spare mirage drive pedal crank assembly
- Ellen key set
- Extra chains/cables & masts
- Spare mirage drive

I tend to break stuff more often than most people so you may not need all this. Masts can usually be straightened on the water if you run into something - provided they don't snap. The mirage drive can function with only one fin or without the idler cable. So as long as you're not too far offshore then you can usually limp back.

Vert useful list, thanks!

I noticed SLH now has the new stainless steel masts for the drive that I saw mentioned in another thread available. I might grab a set of those and keep the originals as spares, assuming they are interchangable once fitted (I recall the SS ones are slightly longer).

[chrisw]

Folowup that just occurred to me also: I am a wee bit concerned about tyre punctures, which for me could be a big hassle. I hand-cart my PA about 300m to the water, part of which traverses a park containing a football oval used for local matches. There's sometimes glass scrunched up in the gravel driveway I have to cross, and those 30cm soft sand tyres don't fill me with confidence about their resilience. If i did get a flat it would be quite difficult to get it back home (I'd need to recruit another hefty bloke and do a carry).

I have got a bike pump so I can refill slow leaks but I was wondering if anyone has patched these sort of wheels before and if so do normal bike patch kits work? The material doesn't look like normal rubber.

[bjspinner]

Folowup that just occurred to me also: I am a wee bit concerned about tyre punctures, which for me could be a big hassle. I hand-cart my PA about 300m to the water, part of which traverses a park containing a football oval used for local matches. There's sometimes glass scrunched up in the gravel driveway I have to cross, and those 30cm soft sand tyres don't fill me with confidence about their resilience. If i did get a flat it would be quite difficult to get it back home (I'd need to recruit another hefty bloke and do a carry).

I have got a bike pump so I can refill slow leaks but I was wondering if anyone has patched these sort of wheels before and if so do normal bike patch kits work? The material doesn't look like normal rubber.

They can be fixed but not patched, look for heavy duty cart wheels (solid rubber) if you are doing those sort of distances on harder ground.
The beach wheels are best for beach only they can be repaired by welding with a soldering iron.
As for spares Shane list is great but his usage of yaks is more in the extreme category, in over 4 years I have never broken a part on either PA I have owned for the Drive Oasis included and I carry most Drive parts the same.
Just remember you have the new Drive so parts are different to the older Drive.

[vicyak]

Shane does the extreme by travelling far offshore even before he had his AI. If you were heading 10miles+ offshore you would need to carry such stuff. Great he is self sufficient this way as a minor issue could be a major problem if you don't have it.

I've broken a chain once and still had one flipper working. Got back in slowly. If I was fishing lakes or just PPB you probably don't need much if anything in the way of spares.
In terms of wheels I had puncture in my old sand wheels. tried the soldering iron thing. Didn't work for me but I think the hole was too big. I also tried filling with foam filler which lasted a few trips then was useless again. In the end I upgraded to the larger beach wheels which make a difference.

[Wind Waker]

https://slhobie.com.au/gear/hobie-kayak ... spares-kit

Grab the one to suit your drive, add some allen keys tge right size. Dont forget the spanners. Wrapped in an oiled rag and then packed in a Ziploc bag or 3. Put it inside the whole clipped around one of the scupper tubes and you're all set.

* just put the tools in the bags to stop from going rusty

If yours has glidetech then talk to the guys first and swap out the appropriate parts to suit

[chrisw]

They can be fixed but not patched, look for heavy duty cart wheels (solid rubber) if you are doing those sort of distances on harder ground.
The beach wheels are best for beach only they can be repaired by welding with a soldering iron.

thanks for this advice. I see the solid rubber wheels are available as a spare part; do you happen to know if they have the same size axle hole as the 30cm soft wheels? (If they do I can swap them, or even just buy a single wheel and keep it in the yak as a spare )

[bjspinner]

They can be fixed but not patched, look for heavy duty cart wheels (solid rubber) if you are doing those sort of distances on harder ground.
The beach wheels are best for beach only they can be repaired by welding with a soldering iron.

thanks for this advice. I see the solid rubber wheels are available as a spare part; do you happen to know if they have the same size axle hole as the 30cm soft wheels? (If they do I can swap them, or even just buy a single wheel and keep it in the yak as a spare )

Same axle size as the trap 2-30 cart, I use the solid wheels on the same cart I cut some spacers from plastic water pipe and swap wheels for the appropriate terrain.