electric motor

[Wind Waker]

I run lithium in my yak and Ian, safety is the same as nearly anyyhing else. Don't short it out and don't buy cheap unregulated crap then all is well

[bunyip]

I thought charging was the main concern with lithium, I have seen a small lithium about the size of a AA create a spectacular fireball, although I suspect overloading could have the same effect.

[shane]

I thought charging was the main concern with lithium, I have seen a small lithium about the size of a AA create a spectacular fireball, although I suspect overloading could have the same effect.

You need to use a specific Li-ion charger, don't overcharge or over drain and preferably charge single cells or balance charge to ensure all are correct.

[bunyip]

I am aware that lithium chargers use micro processors to control the charge and gradually reduce then turn off but I always worry about a charger fault which can cause a fireball.
Nothing is infallible (except politicians )

[Wind Waker]

Ive seen the mess from overcharging SLA and gel as well.

Quality lithium batteries have the balancer circuit built into the battery fyi and using a smart charger on those is actually a huge no no

Oh and 70ah is more like $1000. A 15ah is around 350.

[Yako]

Ive seen the mess from overcharging SLA and gel as well.

Quality lithium batteries have the balancer circuit built into the battery fyi and using a smart charger on those is actually a huge no no

Oh and 70ah is more like $1000. A 15ah is around 350.

Hi Brett, What brand of Li-Ion batteries do you use? How well do they hold up in wet/moist areas and how much heat do they give off when you run an electric motor?
A 70Ah battery weighs only around 5,5-6Kg's and are a lot slimmer than SLA/AGM etc so I don't think the weight and size is really an issue but the recent spate of Samsung Note 7's bursting into flames doesn't do much to build confidence in Lithium batteries.
My understanding is that when you purchase a Li-Ion battery you should get a matching charger with it.

[Wind Waker]

I use these for work and play...
http://www.fusionagmbatteries.com.au/ta ... lymer.aspx

I buy from these guys...
http://www.independantbattery.com.au/

My little 7.5ah just runs lights, sounder, wifi bridge etc and lasts about 7ah with full load. Stone cold. 18 months old. Charge with a CTek lithium charger which is over kill but why not

The voltage curve is a killer. 13v becomes 10v fast as at the end. I spot solder direct to the battery tans then fill heat shrink with hot melt glue and shrink it down. Seems to keep the corrosion at bay.

I've done installs with large 1500w pure sine inverters and the larger 200ah units and that has worked really well with happy customers.

[annandm]

Thanks Guys for the advice. I won,t be taking my electric motor anywhere near the sea just the lakes, and only on calm days. It is all attached to the kayak so no fumbling with wires or anything. I can also pedal my Kayak so the motor is just a back up if i get cramp or tired pedalling. It does have a Watersnake kill switch and it is registered and i have a boat license and the proper safety gear, I,m probably over careful as I,m 61 years old and won,t take any risks. I,ve even bought stabilisers to fit on the kayak, also I would like a stand up bar as the stabilisers are doing their job, anyone know other than the Hobie bar where I could get another type of bar from thanks Mick

[Yako]

Mick, what kayak do you want to fit a H-bar to? There are 1 or 2 others out there who have something for theirs.
The alternative is to make one from Aluminium tubing using pre-made elbows/bends. There's really not much to a H-Bar so to make one is no effort and you don't need to weld either.

[bjspinner]

I use these for work and play...
http://www.fusionagmbatteries.com.au/ta ... lymer.aspx

I buy from these guys...
http://www.independantbattery.com.au/

My little 7.5ah just runs lights, sounder, wifi bridge etc and lasts about 7ah with full load. Stone cold. 18 months old. Charge with a CTek lithium charger which is over kill but why not

The voltage curve is a killer. 13v becomes 10v fast as at the end. I spot solder direct to the battery tans then fill heat shrink with hot melt glue and shrink it down. Seems to keep the corrosion at bay.

I've done installs with large 1500w pure sine inverters and the larger 200ah units and that has worked really well with happy customers.

Should look at these guys, I have the 20ah and balance charge also around 2 years old now and going strong.
http://ev-power.com.au/webstore/12v-lif ... h-bms.html
A bit cheaper than the fusion range