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Change of Mind

Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 15:05
by muddyone
Some of you would have seen my Advert for my PA14 for sale, and also some of you suggested that I might be better off trying to make it easier to get the kayak onto and off of my trailer rather than get rid of it.

So, that's what I'm doing and I could probably use a bit of advice along the way.

Here's what I'm looking at:

First off, the tow vehicle (yes I'm a somewhat grey nomad and yes I can go anywhere the wind takes me, except National Parks, I have a cat)
IMG_20181218_143218.jpg
So behind that, I've got this Tradies trailer full of camping gear and other sh1te, to which I've attached some 90mm Stormwater pipe as 'bunks'
IMG_20181218_143229.jpg
Sitting inside the 90mm pipe is 75mm pipe which I'm hoping to use as a ramp of sorts so I can slide the kayak up onto the top
IMG_20181218_143151.jpg
My question is, can anyone think of a reasonably solid way of connecting the different size pipes that's easy to put together and easy to put away when not being used.

Obviously the smaller pipe slides inside the larger ones for travelling and will have some kind of through pin to stop it sliding out.

All suggestions and comments appreciated.

Rod

Re: Change of Mind

Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 15:21
by choppers
Hope that poly ramp is strong enough for the weight of your kayak and the added force of sliding it up?

Where there's a will there's a way, nice engineering if it works. Maybe a hole drilled thru both pipes and a long bolt thru the both will keep them joined?

Re: Change of Mind

Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 15:25
by muddyone
Hi, and thanks for the reply.

If it flexes too much I'll just whack a couple of bits of 3x2 pine up them and glue them in.

Was thinking the same with through bolts cos I could reuse same holes for keeping the smaller pipes inside while travelling

Re: Change of Mind

Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 16:17
by peatop
Ron is correct the pipe will flex, and break, i originally used 75mm pipe on my trailer, it worked a charm but i dropped the tailgate once breaking the pipe :cry: i the turned to treated pine with marine carpet glued to the top
trailer.jpg
this works extremely well.

As previously stated I've been working on a T loader, this is now finished and tested
T loaader 3.jpg
this is the yak loaded with T bar extended to support the stern
T loaader 2.jpg
T loaader 4.jpg
the T loader with the T bar lowered, i have the T bar lowered and the T loader in an upright position then drag the yak back until the yak is supported by the T loader, then move to the stern and pull the PA back, the T loader moves into the angled position as you walk backwards, when you reach the required distance you put the stern down
T loaader 6.jpg
T loaader 5.jpg
now you just pick up the yak by the front handle, lift it to one side and lower it. I attach the wheels whilst the PA is still resting on the roofracks and T loader as this is the easiest for me.

What ever way you go about doing it use marine carpet on your skids, this will protect against scrapes and reduce friction allowing easier loading.

If you still want to use skids, i would suggest 120x45 treated pine and use a very heavy gate style hinges and fold the skids next to each other you might find if 120x45 flexes go 140 or 160x45.

Re: Change of Mind

Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 16:23
by vicyak
Like the idea. It will flex too much without adding at least one support brace. I think you can add a Tpiece on the middle of each uprise and the Tpiece joins to the other side. The great thing about this is it also means your PVC is a small size so easier to transport. To make it better again, You can also add a reducer so your pipe might be 100mm and lower is 90mm meaning they slide into themselves for storage.

As you know they come in Higher pressure pipe as well and these will be better to support any load you are pushing on.

Rhino make a Side loader option and I made my own which was stronger than theres. Used a Timber base, Pole stand from Rays and attached to a metal brace to both roof racks (Attached by pin only). On the metal brace wrapped non slip tape which also stops the yak from sliding. It was real easy loading the PA14 from the side and cost no more than $40.

Re: Change of Mind

Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 16:23
by laneends
Just be aware you could get pinged for trailer overhang if you are unlucky

Re: Change of Mind

Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 16:29
by peatop
laneends wrote:Just be aware you could get pinged for trailer overhang if you are unlucky
If the trailer is registered your allowed overhang, although im nit sure how much.

Re: Change of Mind

Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 17:29
by muddyone
Yeah, the overhang I checked somewhere and it's apparently OK, but I should find it again and print it out so I've got something to show to any over zealous person who pulls me up.

Here it is: https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/-/media ... 83AFDCE6EE
Just because they're cops, doesn't mean they know the law.

Re: Change of Mind

Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 18:09
by laneends
muddyone wrote:Yeah, the overhang I checked somewhere and it's apparently OK, but I should find it again and print it out so I've got something to show to any over zealous person who pulls me up.

Here it is: https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/-/media ... 83AFDCE6EE
Just because they're cops, doesn't mean they know the law.
The query about that is whether it means a trailer constructed for the purpose of carrying water craft, as opposed to a regular box trailer that is not purpose designed. A 14 foot kayak should project too much anyway, epecially if you add an additional support upright further forward on the drawbar.

Pete technically if total length from towball to rear over hang exceeds 3m it needs to registered regardless of any other overhang requirements.

Re: Change of Mind

Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 18:10
by happyas
I think it has to be registered as a boat trailer to be allowed overhang. Could be wrong though.