Plugging screw-holes in hulls?
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Re: Plugging screw-holes in hulls?
pale/white/see through milk bottles are good if you cant exactly color match
- mingle
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Re: Plugging screw-holes in hulls?
Thanks for the info... One issue I have is that two of the holes are at a place in the hull where I can't get in to install a 'backing-plate' to keep the molten plastic from dropping straight through.
Mike.
Mike.
shane wrote:This is one of the better videos for what you want. A standard soldering iron and HDPE offcuts will work. I use a dremel at the end then heat with a heat gun to smooth off
- shane
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Re: Plugging screw-holes in hulls?
If the holes are only screw holes you shouldn't need a backing plate. Just don't let the area get to hot to prevent sagging. You can also add more plastic in stages if required. Just start with the easier holes to get the hang of it.
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- Yako
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Re: Plugging screw-holes in hulls?
Have you got a pic of where you are trying to repair?mingle wrote:Thanks for the info... One issue I have is that two of the holes are at a place in the hull where I can't get in to install a 'backing-plate' to keep the molten plastic from dropping straight through.
Mike.
You can build up in stages, melt a small section of offcut/rod so it fuses with the edge of the hole then stop, let it cool then go again. Don't try fill in one go in your case as there is no backing plate to stop it falling through.
One things this video doesn't show well is that you need to make sure the "new" material is melted and fused with the kayak. If the new molten material is liqud & the kayak solid then you won't get a true weld with the possibility of leaks. The key with this type of welding is patience & don't rush.
It's really super easy to do
John 3.16/17